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How worn down can mussy hooks be before they become dangerous? We pulled on 2 good ones and 3 worn down ones from 5 Gallon Buckets route in Smith Rock. Other 'open systems' where you can just clip in are the Ram's horn and permanent steel carabiners with captive eyes. They all broke super good enough. Our bonus test was lap links (chain links that are not welded closed) pulled off an old route and they were weaker than the rope. See our results on the blog ,https://www.hownot2.com/post/mussy-hooks